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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.